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March 23, 2000

The Beauty of a City Brought on by Legacies of Perishing Past Glory  
by Masayuki Takazawa


Istanbul, a destination long longed for

Flying to Istanbul was a big hit song in Japan about when I was in elementary school.  Whenever I heard the song playing, I thought I'd visit Istanbul someday, though I had no idea what the lyrics really meant.  Then, in December of 1999, over 20 years after that, my dream of going to Istanbul finally came true.  (That's a bit overstated, isn't it?  These days, anyone can go if there's enough time and money.)

Never dreamed of going there on business!

I call myself a consultant in city planning and development for developing countries.  Consequently, most of my job sites are basically either in remote areas of such countries, where infrastructure is less or not developed, or in their capital, where there are government offices with information and resources readily available.  Istanbul is a big city with a population of over 10 million, equipped with infrastructure as developed as any advanced nation, and not a capital.  Therefore, I thought I'd never get a chance to visit Istanbul on business as long as I was in the consulting business.  Yet, the chance became a reality.  I thought of myself very lucky for being able to go to a place I'd wanted to go for a long time, with somebody else's money (not a good expression, I admit).

No time to visit any tourist spot!

I stayed in Istanbul for about 15 days but didn't have time to go visit tourist spots for leisurely sightseeing.  It was plain that legacies of perishing past glory like Blue Mosque, Topkapi Palace, Suleymaniye Mosque, etc. very much contributed to the beautiful outlook of this contemporary city.  This should be readily recognizable to anyone, no matter how aesthetically inept he/she might be.  I wasn't able to take time to see these places while I was at work there.  However, I became totally hooked on the charm of the views given rise by structures of ancient heritage, as I thoroughly explored the city by car.  Well, this time I was on business, so be it.  But the next time, I will come as a tourist and am going to take time to appreciate them.

Temorary shelters in a quake-stricken area -- Harsh reality reminds me of Hanshin-Awaji Earthquake.  Makes me wonder about the life and future of the people who have lost their home.  We have the responsibility to follow up and make sure that relief goods reach the victims.

Partially collapsed building -- Damage of this degree is comparatively light.

Fun of on-site study that can't be experienced in sightseeing

Of course, there are things I did that regular sightseers can't experience; going to Istanbul Municipal Hall, meeting with city officials regarding various socio-economic conditions, and conducting research on the city's population at the district level, district borders, administration, organization, finance, and such.  (Most people, even city officials, didn't know exactly where the district borders were.)  This research was much more interesting than visiting tourist spots.  As for information gathering, I did it not from books written by unknowledgeable specialists or journalists but directly from the source by interviewing the inside, key person, and checking it myself.  Thus, it was the latest and reliable (though I felt a little uneasy about the information that my interpreter didn't seem quite sure of what he was telling me about).  Each piece of information was fresh and, as if water soaked into desert sand, absorbed into my head.  The interpreter who accompanied my group was also inspired.  Through this, he came to know a lot more about his hometown, like its population, district division and other socio-economic conditions, etc.  Though he was born and grew up in Istanbul, he probably found this experience more interesting than he had imagined.  (I wonder if they don't teach those subjects in social studies at school.)

With Turkish staff members & government official (myself standing on the leftmost)

Will book information make an Istanbul expert?

Since Istanbul is relatively well known, it is easy to obtain various information about it while in Japan from books like travel guides and technical books on city planning and architecture.  I certainly did extensive research that way before my departure.  However, I didn't know until I arrived there that a lot of such literature information was not necessarily reliable at all.  For starters, the last syllable -bul of Istanbul is pronounced short as "búl," not "bú:l" (the point which the interpreter also pointed out.)  Moreover, information including the exact administrative districts, their area, and the notion of city zoning, differs between books and the given explanations are generally vague.  It's precarious that you don't know which information from which book to believe.

Information can be dangerous.  Even misinformation may start passing as correct with no one noticing it and get out of control.

(Trans.: TS)


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