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September 26, 2000

Mozambique Journal: Silent People  
by Masato Onozawa


Yesterday, it was the 36th anniversary to commemorate the establishment of Mozambican army, so there was a military parade (though actually too small to be called that) here in Tete as well.  A makeshift stage was set up at an intersection in downtown, and it was a merry festival day with music and public speech going on all day long.

After the three-day weekend, a regular workday was about to resume this morning.  I stopped by at the bank near my office to settle study team's expenses as the first thing of my day's agendas.  There were many people at the bank, naturally after the long break, waiting in lines for their transactions.  I joined in one of the lines and it was then I noticed something different: it was the quietness that could only be described as "utter silence".

It has already been two weeks since I arrived here for my assignment, and come to think of it, people in Mozambique talk very quietly and politely as I have realized.  I first thought that was their humbleness mixed with curiosity toward us foreigners, but it doesn't seem to be the case.  Even at the street market near my office, their business is bustling but people don't yell or talk loud at each other.

If you expect the resonating clamor so prevalent in Asian markets to be present in markets in this country, you are apt to get a very different impression.  There is the kind of quietness that may be appropriately described as "gentle."

Hearing them talk, you'd certainly become prone to develop the stereotypical view of  Mozambicans = Portuguese = Brazil = samba = festivity, African rhythm, cheerfulness, etc.  However, the reality appears to be slightly different.  Of course, "festivity, African rhythm, cheerfulness, etc." in the last term of the above equality are all there.  Yet, they all talk quietly.  Silence is observed in banks.  This is a big discovery to me, and at the same time, it is one of those things that keep me interested in the people of this country.

(Trans.: TS)


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