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September 29, 2000

Memoirs of Exchange with Architects on the Other Side of the Earth  
by Masayuki Takazawa


Introduction: Friend in Wakayama

In early August, I got a call for the first time in a very long while from a friend, who runs an architectural design office in Wakayama, a very good friend of mine.  I met him about 10 years ago at a seedy English-conversation cafe in Roppongi and we have managed to keep in touch ever since.  I lost contact with him briefly in 93 when he went to England to study and then in 96 when I also went to study in England.  However, our fate must have been intertwined so much so that we ran into each other again in London.  I am still impressed how our friendship has lasted this long because of the only two reasons, being an architect and fond of drinking, that we have in common.

Back to the story:  In early August, this very good friend of mine called and invited me to go to Brazil with him for about 10 days in mid September.  At the moment, I knew what he wanted to tell me -- about the "Architectural City Workshop," the topic of this story -- because I'd seen it advertised in an architectural magazine when I was browsing at a bookstore.  It is a study-tour on which participants go to Brazil, do some research on architectural/city planning, and present the results in front of the people involved over there.  And, from the architectural magazine mentioned above, I knew one of the organizers was this friend of mine.  Though I certainly didn't expect him to call to invite me to the tour, he seemed to be worried about not having enough participants.  Trying to talk me into going no matter what, he baited me with all sorts of alluring words, and I finally agreed to go since I had no particular reason not to go, besides it's not that I wasn't interested and I wasn't busy at work.

What this workshop was about

The main purpose of the workshop in which I participated this time is to deepen friendship between Japan and Brazil through architecture and city planning.  Also, gathering information on architecture and city planning in Brazil is one of the purposes as well.  For there is not much pertinent information available in Japan, contrary to the general notion that Brazil is far from but close to Japan and information on Brazil in general is readily available.  Perhaps because of this, a portion of expenses for activities in this workshop was subsidized by Japan Foundation.  This workshop was carried out with the following agenda.

  1. 1.

    Discover and extract some vernacular from the cities to be visited (São Paulo and its nearby city Embu and a beach resort, Maceió).

    2.

    Do not rely on superficial information found in such materials as guidebooks -- This is most important.  Observe characteristics (on people's lives, society, topography, and architecture) of the locale, that are to be felt as you visit the city.  If necessary, study and experience further on your own.

    3. Express your design (for architecture,  a monument, etc.), based on the obtained information, in a plan, structure, or other form.  The planned construction site for your design proposal must be in the premises of the artificially constructed city of Brasilia.  Think of what role your design expressed for the vernacular gained from a city in Brazil can play in the artificial city of Brasilia and present your work to professors of University of Brasilia.

In this workshop, we, participants, visited Sao Paulo, Embu, Maceio, and Marechal Deodoro to pick out vernaculars.  We also visited Brasilia and did research there to decide prospective construction sites for our design proposals.







Reflection on the tasks: Refreshing workshop!?

This workshop required us to extract a vernacular, select a construction site, create a design proposal, and present our work to the local specialists involved within the seven days of our stay.  Since we'd start from the beginning of a project as it were, we had to proceed with far more efficiency and concentration than required in normal circumstances.  Besides, we'd have to fly three times in the country (we even had to take an early flight before six in the morning), take buses during the day on field studies, walk around to do research, and sit through lectures by specialists and receptions in the evening.  The schedule allowed us only about a day to draw plans or construct structures, so we'd all go frantic . . . .!?  On the contrary, once we got ourselves into our tasks, it turned out to be not so.  Strangely we found it fun.  Though I stayed up almost all night preparing with my roommate (one room assigned to two people during the trip) the night before the presentation, we felt so refreshed when we were done.  I felt not the slightest pain.

Fourteen people participated in this workshop.  They were a group of people of divergent ages and occupations, with the oldest being a staff member of some organization in the 50's and the youngest a college student in the 20's.  They were all wonderful people and no one complained no matter how tight our schedule was.  We moved as a group so inevitably things did not proceed as scheduled.  If it were a study for our job, someone would have been prone to become irritable.  However, none of us lost patience.  If someone did, he would probably have been just glared at by the rest of us.

What I gained from this workshop

There was a university professor at an exchange event with local architects, who voiced a negative opinion on "architectural/city design conceived of the vernacular" that we were trying to do.  According to him, while old countries like Japan may respect their own tradition, culture and indigenous characteristics, a young ones like Brazil do not, so there is no need for vernacular design or such in Brazil.  He later added that we should only pursue modernism in architecture.  In a nutshell, buildings made of reinforced concrete with dry and "inorganic" designs, like those office buildings found around Tokyo station for example, would suffice.  That is, there is no place for the vernacular in creating design concepts for architecture.

A professor of University of Brasilia, who listened to my presentation, also made a similar comment.  I had my eyes on the brownish-colored tiled roof often seen on houses in the country and selected it as my vernacular.  Then, I made a suggestion to use the roof for those "inorganic" buildings in the government office area of Brasilia.  However, he refused to accept it because, to him, any tiled roof goes against modernism.  He seems to be another modernism-loving person.

Pardon my biased interpretation but in Japan's architecture "modernism" was definitely being pursued once as well until about 20 years ago.  Its trace is evident in office buildings such as those in the business district surrounding Tokyo Station.  However, most of Japanese architects today are skeptical of such kind of architecture that is only concerned about the pursuit of modernism.  They are now reappraising traditional architecture that incorporates a lot of human's natural touch, instead of contemporary architecture assembled with parts precisely fabricated according to structural calculations.  There are also architects who extol wooden architecture.  So this trend of looking at modernism with doubt has become stronger and the idea of "post-modernism," after modernism, has already been conceived in Japan.  I think vernacular architecture can be categorized in a class within this idea.

Patriotism among Brazilian nationals is said to be strong.  However, having got to know, through this workshop, that there exist architects, more than one in fact, who insist on the pursuit of modernism, ignoring vernaculars altogether, just because their country is young, I doubt if they have a grain of patriotism at all.  I believe that vernaculars and patriotism are linked somehow.  What, then, makes up patriotism of Brazilian people?

Encouraged by students

As mentioned above, people from a wide range of age groups participated in this workshop.  I was happy that I could do things with them but it was especially stimulating and meaningful to me to work with college students.  Looking at their works, there does not seem to be much order because they tried to put too much information in them.  Yet, I felt power full of youth in their works.  I could sense designs created through indomitable physical strength (and perseverance) and ideas not constrained by established concepts.  I also felt distinctive energy in the way they tackled their tasks aggressively without fear of making mistakes.

I am still relatively green in this international development study business.  They made me think I should act like them with a lot more "fighting spirit."  What I need more is the spirit to "fight," not to "protect."  At any rate, they gave me a good dose of inspiration.

What I learned the most from the way my friend had changed

Because of the workshop, we were invited to Japanese Embassy and, to my surprise, the ambassador extraordinary and plenipotentiary even held a welcome reception for us.  I didn't miss a chance to exchange business cards with him.  Well, I have been to Turkey and the Philippines as a JICA study team member before but never seen a Japanese ambassador, much less a reception held by one. . . . !?  The reason why we could experience things like this at this workshop is because the ambassador recognized the activities and services of the workshop's four planners.  My friend is one of them.  Thanks to him, who invited me to the workshop, I could chat with the ambassador.  This friend is two years older than me but I feel he's way ahead of me in our careers.  He went through a lot more hard times in his youth than I did, beyond comparison.  He worked for an architect as if serving an apprenticeship after college, and then went to England to spend three years studying as a student.  After that he spent two more years living there to save some money and returned to Japan only about two years ago.  It was last year when he was 34, he opened his own architectural design office, helping his family's business.  Though he had had a life with no definite prospect, he stood by his own faith firmly.  He stuck to the faith that he would pursue architecture of his ideal, not turning into a "corporate man."  Then, he did in fact attain the goal.  I hear his business is coming along well and he teaches at a technical school as a part-time lecturer.

As it turned out, I was inspired very much by meeting him again.  I think I can make something of myself, too; I can still grow.  It's got me into thinking that, for that, I am going to take chances, be more aggressive like the students I met in the workshop, take on difficult tasks, and even endure pain.

I sure am glad to have participated.

(Trans.: TS)


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